Eater december 2021

Critic Ryan Sutton’s 23 Best Dishes of 2021

Falansai fish ssam: Most tasting menus make things luxurious and easy for patrons. Falansai’s Eric Tran, by contrast, likes to make diners work a bit more, with offal-y, off-the-beaten-track preparations. Case in point is the fish three ways: a head, collar, and belly, grilled and brushed with fish sauce caramel. Diners must navigate all the bony nooks and crannies before placing the sweet, gelatinous flesh into lettuce wraps for munching. 112 Harrison Place, at Porter Avenue, Bushwick

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eater august 2021